July 14

July 14
Bastille Day
Puttered about Rouen. Plenty of old and new juxtaposed. Teenage accordion player stirring the air in the plaza before the cathedral. The tremendous leaden spire appearing through alleyways, behind modern buildings, peering over my shoulder whenever I least expected it. Had no idea the cathedral had been so badly damaged in 1944. First a Lancaster missed it's target and bombed the south side, then some B-17's firebombed the neighborhood. By 1956 it was restored, only to be attacked by a tornado! The stonework is mind boggling in scale and delicacy.
Hunkered down in a Flunch restaurant: free wifi, and a big screen tv showing the tour. I'll be climbing le col du tormalet myself, soon enough. Think I'll lighten the panniers a bit beforehand...
Looking forward to the fireworks tonight. It sounds like the fourth of July just a little, but more relaxed. People enjoying outdoor cafes and playing ptank (bocce ball). It's a pleasant day off more than anything else, by my eyes.