July 13

Amiens to Rouen
Woke at 10:45.
Visited cathedral, then the floating gardens of St. Leu. After acquiring the first truly brilliant pastries of the journey, a custard tart with apricots and un tartelette du pomme, rode to to the nearest mini canal to enjoy breakfast while admiring the gardens. Low and behold, there appeared before me young Torval. After a conversation mostly in gestures, he disappeared up the path to the garden house, shortly to reappear with Papa. We negotiated throu the names of various fruits et legumes until deciding upon les pruins. Unable to say that I wanted only 250g, Torval, with the assistance of Papa Pascal and frere Guime, delivered to me 1kg of ripe pruin for all of une Euro. Then they insisted upon filling my bottle with l'eau as we chatted about the beauty of le jardin du familie Pascal, and Papa queried me about mon journie. All too soon it was, "Merci beaucoup" et "Au revoir."
So, at about 3 I headed to Rouen. The light became more and more stunning as the day progressed. In Buchy, a sparkly eyed septugenarian greeted me as I photographed the market shelter. She spoke no Anglais, yet we made a fine conversation full of admiration mutuel. About 13 km outsideof Rouen,the GPS led me on a spectaclar, if roundabout, entry into the great city. Down a quiet valley meadow hugged closely by foret verte with curves as sensuous as any Venus. Then up and over a fairly large hill which enbaled a dramatic descent into the city. The first view of the cathedral spire took my breath away. By then it was 10 p.m. Tired and joyful, I let the GPS lead me to camping about 6 km east of downtown.