29 juillet

29 juillet
St. Etienne de Baigorry a Tardets, about 75 km.
Via Cols d'Iraty:
Col d'Haltza, 782 m
Col de Burdincurutcheta, 1135 m
Col d'Heguichouri, 1284 m
Col de Bagargi, 1327 m
Total ascent: 1794 my
Today was unexpectedly superb. While the sun shone brightly, and I was able to get off to a relatively early start, my legs felt thrashed. Rolling the 8 km into St. Jean de Pied a Port, I seriously considered checking into the camping municipale there, which looked tres inviting situated within the fortress walls. After a brief cruise through the ancient stronghold, my mind still not made up, it was clear that a cafe au lait was required.
Intellect now functioning much better, I took a thorough tour of the citadel, got my legs operational again, and meandered my way up to the Cols d'Iraty. On the Michelin map, this appears to be composed of four cols, three lesser ones leading to the big one. In reality, it's just two, Burdincurutcheta & Bagargui. And the first few km were the most demanding. 11% for a km. Then 11.5% for a half km. Then a long "easy" stretch at only 10.5%. The cafe au lait possessed magical properties, for I was slow, but undaunted. Breathtaking scenery pulled me skyward as if by asthetic cable. At Col d'Haltza, a troupe of four German fellows riding the Raid Pyreneen greeted me with the offer of a half banana. Danke, schön!
Climbing the last km to Col de Burdincurutcheta, enormous vultures riding the thermals, at times just a meter or two above the sloping roadway, brought me to an abrupt halt. Attempts to photograph their majesties were met with indifference. Creeeping up, hoping for another look, I came upon a couple in motorcycle leathers photographing and video recording the big birds. They were Jorge and Isabel, my new Spanish friends. Jorge hailed me. His English far surpassing my Spanish, we established that the vultures were waiting for me to die. Sharing our enthusiasm for the carrion eaters, Jorge showed me some of the excellent photos he had just taken. Then we photographed each other with both of our cameras, I gave him my email address, and promised to be in touch.
Which we were in less than an hour. There is a chalet at the bottom of the descent between Burdincurutcheta and Heguichoiri. Swooping down upon it with empty water bottles, a thirsty vulture was I. Before I could dismount my trusted steed, Jorge leapt up from his table, greeted me like a hero, and insisted on treating me to a cafe au lait. "Gracias, mi Amigo!". An hour with Jorge and his delightful wife, Isabel, sharing photos, stories and a love of birds followed. Both literally and figuratively the high point of a day of grand heights.
Bidding farewell with motorcycle toots and bicycle bells, the last bit of climbing was relatively easy. Only 8%. Then the jacket and helmet went on for the plunge down to Larrau. Some Norwegian cyclists coming the other way warned me about the cows in the road. BIG cows. And horses. And sheep. And goats. The brakes got a workout.
Rolled into Tardets, found a camping ground beside the river, and have decided to take tomorrow off. Must rest legs.