28 juilliet

28 juilliet
St. Jean de Luz to St. Etienne de Baigorry
Via 3 official Cols, two unofficial momumental climbs, and the village of Etxalar, Spain (Basque).
86 km
Col de St. Ignace, 169 meters
Col de Lizarrieta, 441 meters
"Col of the Hungry Ponies," 544 meters
"Col de l'eau Potable," 564 meters
Col d'Ispeguy, 672 meters
Total ascent: 1980 meters
Je suis tres content et un peu fatigue aujourd'hui.
The first day in the Pyrenees exceeded all of my expectations. Mountains rising like giant ocean waves one upon the other, dense green foliage and expanisive sloping meadows, omnipresent clanking of bells on cows, sheep and ponies, quiet winding roads, engaging climbs. Heaven. I departed from the offical route when passing through Sare. Felt like getting off the beaten track. Got my wish. A gradual climb through the forest brought me to Col de Lizarrieta, from which the descent was pure unadulterated glee. Winding, fast, smooth pavement much like the descent from Leggett to the Pacific at the Northern end of Highway One in California. In fact, much of today felt like riding my favorite roads in Northern California, except that they went on & on & on. Tree and shrub covered hillsides brought to mind pleasant memories of running in the hills between Los Altos and the coast.
Having entered Spain, I became rapidly disoriented because the signage was in Basque and Spanish. It got exciting when I could not locate the tiny road that would lead me out of Etxalar and back into France. Summoning up my courage, I asked a woman wearing a bright green vest who was supervising two men in green vests who were repairing the curbs in the miniscule town square by meticulously applying mortar. It was admirable work. She spoke no English, I no Basque, we were able to converse poorly in French. At last she threw her hands high and spoke very loudly, "A gauche, a droite, tout droit!"
"A droite?"
"Non! A gauche!"
Remembering that the GPS attached to my handlebars might be useful, I was able to follow her excellent directions, and find the steepest hill I have ever climbed with a fully loaded touring bike. It was as steep as the steepest part of the climb up Mt Erie. Is that 12%? 15%? It took 100% of me. And it was completely satisfying savoring my lunch at the top, while the local pony population crowded around me begging.
From the remote "Col of the Hungry Ponies," it was a lovely descent and more reasonable climb to the official route. The roadside location de picque-nique had, Merci Dieu!, running water. I was down by a liter at least. A sweeping swift descent from le "Col de l'eau Potable" brought my bike, bags and me to the final climb. Perfectly graded, smooth as silk, the afternoon light bringing the mountains into sharp focus. Voila!
Camping tonight at a bend in the river, a la Camping Municipale St. Etienne de Baigorry.