Thursday, July 21, 2011

15 Juilliet

15 Juilliet
Rouen to near Houlgate
141 km
Put my head down for a little nap before taking in the 11 p.m. fireworks, and woke in the morning. Slept through the whole sheebang, but for a few late night neighborhood explosions. Sounded like dynamite. Local boys were having a blast.
Thought I was waking to the sound of a small child learning to play some kind of wheezy wind instrument,laying the same tune over and over and over. Only the mourning doves.
After visiting an internet shop, where nI was able to upload some improved GPS tracks for the next legs of my journey (and surprise myself repeatedly with le keyboard Francais. Definitely not QWERTY.), rolled west along the Seine. Clear skies, temperatures in the mid-twenties, couldn't be better.
The big river winds in lazy curves from here to the sea, so I plotted a course that cut some corners. Playing touch tag with the water, climbing steep little hills on quiet forested roads, then descending sweeping shaded curves. Crossed over on a striking modern bridge. Had my own lane, as there was no farm equipment to share it with. Very civilized. Then it was rolling countryside tout le route au la mer.
While riding an isolated stretch of wheat field, saw what, in the states, I would have called a coyote standing in the middle of the road watching me approach. Dun brown color of ripe wheat, large alert ears, bushy tail bristling like a bottle brush. Assuming it was a large fox. When I was within 10 meters, it vanished into the field. How many have watched me pass so far? My silent companions.
Camping was a bit difficult to find, seeing as its a holiday weekend. Slipped into a sweet spot overlooking the sea just shy of Houlgate, after closing time. As I leant my bike against the fence and started setting up the tent, a gentle rain began to fall. I am living a charmed life.

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